The evolution of the Peruffo jewellery project by Marta Martino is manifested through a collection which focuses on conceptual and abstract aspect of the creative act. From an idea to the action, up to the instrument that draws the line, the whole process comes to life and becomes solid, a thin metal wire that creates a lattice, the very structure becoming volume. The essence turns into pure sense tracing a line of black ink, that gives the name to the collection.
The creative director of the collection proceeded with a specific methodology of subtraction where voids are more important than the metal construction lines and where the weaving works on three dimensions, resulting in a complexity that confuses the eye and transforms the jewelry in refined metal webs.
“I started the design process from classic gemstones cuts like the round diamond, the emerald and the radiant cut and I started to think how lines of force and not as cutting faces. From there I followed a process of subtraction where I deleted flat surfaces leaving only perimeter lines” says Marta Martino.
The result is a collection of beautiful rings and earrings where the stone is missing and it is recreated through thin metal wires – yellow and black gold, which interact in a contrasting sense – that virtually reconstruct stones from lines and netting. A refined and essential trompe-l’oeil, dedicated to a generation of women that gives more value to the design than the material, which appreciates the essence of the thought more than solid precious stones.
