Gems are a cornerstone in jewelry, but in Peruffo’s latest Stones collection, they arrive like talismans offering a unique ray of light, to stimulate, empower and soothe the spirit.
The Peruffo jewelry project has always sought to give jewelry a new, graphic identity beyond established, classic forms. And within this ambitious trajectory, creative director Marta Martino has found inspiration in everything from guitar strings, to chains and fine lines of ink.
This collection marks the first time she has worked with stones, clear gems including peridot, London topaz, sky topaz, amethyst, citrine and garnet.
“I began with the certainty that we needed color. This collection is all about the desire for positive change and finding the strength to move beyond superficiality.”
Stones engage the spirit and they can be a source of joy, fortune, positivity and fearlessness. To give these pieces talismanic power, Martino and the Peruffo jewelers have created an ultra lightweight system of 18 and 9 carat gold cage structures to push stones into the field of vision like shooting stars.
Reverse-set stones point outwards in stiff peaks like mini spikes to suggest the possibility of physical contact. The result is sophisticated, textured and slightly rebellious, offering a new way to appreciate the lemon yellow of citrine, the deep green of peridot, amethyst’s luminous violet, the seafoam turquoise of sky topaz, London topaz deep blue and the pomegranate blush of garnet. The reverse settings intensify the brilliance by reflecting a wider spectrum of colors from many angles.
The base for Peruffo’s stone rainbow is perpetually on the move, a collection of flowing, interlocking gold frames inspired by the curves of the human body. While this cage-like structure has a certain severity it’s also gentle, both protective like a shield or enveloping like a cocoon, depending on one’s mood.
Peruffo commissioned French digital artist Roland Lauth/AuthessX who is based in Berlin for a film of the Stones collection. In this fantasy clip, the Stones pieces morph from solids to liquids and back again to become one with the wearer.